Hi kids, I promise I didn’t forget the House of Gucci review. She’s just been a busy gal before the holidays and I wanted to suck in all the actual information I could before dragging the movie, heehee. Anyway, let’s get to the news and unsolicited opinions.
Earlier this week, Chanel announced Leena Nair as their new CEO. Previously, Nair spent 30 years as chief human resources officer at Unilever. I think this is a really smart move for Chanel, and a move towards furthering their diversity and inclusivity. It really wouldn’t hurt at all to move Chanel away from the direction of white colonizer. I also love seeing more women taking up top seats, because although women make up a large majority of fashion consumers, the owners and executives of these brands are largely male.
Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss announced his venture with Kering last year, but more details were revealed this week. YFINY will have a designer incubator program that already includes amazing talents and brands like Hanifa, Theophelio, Luar, and Head of State. We love to see larger designers nurturing smaller designers!!!
Guram Gvasalia was officially named the creative director of Vetements, and the Instagram announcement made me lol. We already knew Guram was creative directing, but his need to make a direct announcement about it feels very much… trying to one up my brother, no? Especially the mention of Demna being considered a lost cause to their family. I giggled. Demna and Balenciaga are definitely having a moment, so I feel like this move by Guram was an itty bit calculated, but, happy for him!
Louis Vuitton showed its pre-fall 2022 menswear collection, and yes, it was completed prior to Virgil’s passing. Virgil was not against commercialism the way a lot of fashion people are, and in the press notes he also says, “What makes menswear? Boys do. I believe that building blocks stacked upon each other through our lives form the narrative of what defines menswear.” These two concepts kind of go hand in hand. I feel like a lot of the younger generation starts exploring their fashion journey with things that are commercial, and Virgil is definitely a favorite amongst them. This collection was filled with Virgil-isms. Whether it be the destroyed logo and checkers, the chains, the workwear, the graphics, it all felt familiar. I especially love this look and this one. The wrap skirts in this collection are really lovely and I’m kind of super here for a beekeeper hat moment. I also didn’t mind the bleached moments. A two piece skirt suit was really beautiful and the sequined embellishment was such a gorg and subtle way to feature the monogram.
So Dior happened. I will be sending the medical bill for my anti-anxiety medication to Maria Grazia Churi. Literally, what was that. MGC seems to be really set on changing Dior’s narrative into this super feminist, women can wear workwear and don’t have to be super glam and pretty to be beautiful. Which like, true, and like, fair. But there’s a beauty and fantasy about Dior that I feel like she’s stripping away. I don’t really get Christian Dior when I look at this collection, and there’s no other way to say that it’s just pretty ugly. A slogan t-shirt with “Feminity, The Trap” written on it, based off of the article written by Simone de Beauvoir, is one of the centering ideas of this collection, and I am sorry to Simone. There are looks that could have been something but weren’t, and the styling was, of course, confusing. A red chiffon dress that was simple, but could have been a lovely moment, was ruined by a fishnet tank, biker shorts, and two tiny, stupid belts. The logo on this bag looks like a coffee sack and is giving Starbuck and this is giving Tour de France. I will say, I didn’t mind the idea of a puffer coat dress, but let’s work on it.
I wasn’t super blown away by Givenchy, but I do think Matthew Williams does structure and tailoring well and should really play into that more. There was some lovely coats and this look isn’t anything crazy but I’m into it. Also, the fact that his couture collection is being postponed is a deep sigh. Like, yeah I guess I rather you take your time, but also… it’s been quite some time. This shit better be good. Miss Candle Jenner also has a bag named after her, say hi to the Kenny!!! I mean, I love denim, but I don’t know if I needed to see this in existence, but the logomania girlies will eat it up!
Okay, let’s cleanse the palette with Christopher John Rogers. Mixing southern style and youthful fashion exploration, CJR created a collection that seems to take you through time. The idea of playing with sensuality and a bit of off-ness speaks to me so much, because I find that every time I choose an outfit, I’m usually thinking, “What makes sense, but isn’t too obvious?” I would probs do just about anything to talk color theory with CJR, and all the lovely hues in this collection further that need. But let’s not forget the neutrals. The grey looks are delish and if you zoom in you can see a rainbow! Thread! In! The! Fabric! The ruffles and balloon pants are a dream. The way the ruffle on the blouse just cascades down is stunning and the iridescent fabric is effortlessly a work of art. The construction of this bell shaped dress made me reach for my inhaler. The tucks! The folds! The symmetry! I need a moment. A knit dress with slits upon slits makes me realize I had dreams of being a strip of party streamers that I didn’t even know I had. Can y’all imagine the movement?! I simply would not stay seated in it. A dress with a slit gives you options by also having a zipper and PVC raincoat with brush strokes makes me excited about outerwear. I love the drop waist being done again, it’s so sweet and a suit with rainbow threading gives the imitation of pinstripes. This jumpsuit was fashioned after flying squirrels and CJR calls the peoples that wear his clothing squirrels, we love. The constant growth makes me so excited to know that a designer like CJR will surely be a designer always look forward to, and is an icon of our generation. I could go on forever and dissect each look, because this is a CJR stan account.
R13 was the ultimate cool girl. One of my preferred methods of dressing is for there to be absolutely no way to tell what my body looks like, or to know if I even have one for that matter. I just want to be a pile of big clothes, and R13 really gets me. Every time I try to type something with substance out about this collection, my brain just keeps repeating, “This shit is so cool.” This collection is very preppy meets punk, and while the pieces are very oversized, they’re still flattering and don’t wear you. It’s a little different and it’s bold, but I think the collection is still palatable for the general consumer.
Celine also happened, but I forgot and I don’t care, LOL!
- Kim Kardashian for i-D; i-D always shoots the coolest covers. They’re simple, but just done so well. Kim wore Skims and Balenciaga, of course. I wish more of the fashion was visible, and it’s not anything insane, but it is Kim. Styled by Alastair McKim.
- Quannah Chasinghorse for Elle; I mean, you already know it’s the CJR look for me!!! The focus of this shoot was more Quannah than it was the fashion, and I thought she looked lovely. Everything but the Dolce & Gabbana look was pretty. This Miu Miu jacket and these Area shorts were great. Styled by Alex White.
- Elle Fanning for L’Officiel; So…not that interesting. I thought the Gucci and Prada suits were fun, and the Loewe look was lovely. Not a fan of the Dior, Louis Vuitton, and Stella McCartney looks. Why was that a thing. This Burberry set looks hot, would have loved a better shot of it. I would love to see a modernized Catherine the Great shoot for Elle. Styled by Alison Edmond.
- Doja Cat for Rolling Stone; I love Doja and I love how each one of her performances is a whole production. This shoot did not entirely feel like a whole production, but there were some fun looks. Styled by Brett Alan Nelson.
- Olivia Wilde for Vogue; Vogue sure does love a desert shoot! I didn’t really understand the story here when it comes to the fashion. I also think the Balenciaga look would have been a better cover. I hated this Louis Vuitton dress and I’m interested in this Gucci skirt. Styled by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson.
- Madison Beer wore Nensi Dojaka and I love. Simple and sexy. Her legs are insane. If you look closely, there’s a piping that goes down the sides of the dress that’s lovely. Also great Spider-Man premiere look! Could have used a better shoe.
- Marisa Tomei was really giving Thanos’ glove and I need better for Aunt May. SHE DESERVES THE WORLD!!! This does not fit well and the slit is pointless.
- I do like a brown suit, a heeled boot, and a double breasted moment, but I would have liked a more interesting look for Tom at the premiere of a movie that made me scream, cry, and throw up. She’s also a bit crinkly and wrinkly.
- I mean, Zendaya looks great, let’s be real. This custom Valentino dress is perfect for the Spider-Man premiere, and it references a John Galliano dress that was on display at The Met’s Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy exhibit. I know the leg and the slit are her thing, but y’all know how I feel about slits most of the time. I also didn’t love seeing the lining underneath because of it. The mask was a nice touch, it gave the feel of spider eyes and tied in nicely.
- I really enjoyed Zendaya’s Jimmy Kimmel look. The cargo pants and deconstructed blazer are great and the gold string top is fun. Everything just flows so nicely together. I know it’s Balmain, but it has a little bit of a Rick Owens vibe, no?
- I’m not that into Etro, but I actually loved this dress on Nicole Kidman. Very festive!!! The symmetry is beautiful and I love the colors. Hate the shoes.
- Stunning little lemon drop. Very into this for Ariana.
- Emily really needs to take some notes from Lily, because if not, she’s gonna have to stay out of Paris. Love this little mod number and the platforms are great.
- Who did this to her. JAIL. That top could not possibly flatter anyone.
- Behati has really been in her vintage era and honestly, I’m very here for it. Love the trompe l’oiel effect on this dress.
- Kim Kardashian announcing she passed the baby bar in this full Balenciaga Innstagram photoshoot is really on brand. This blue color is stunning, though.
- I would also like to run errands and casually wear Di Petsa.
- Jared Leto loves a Gucci look and I love a color palette! ALSO!!! He’s wearing a necklace with the number six on it, which is a nod to The Sinister Six. Marvel heads, iykyk.
- THE GIRLS ARE FIGHTING!!! Hedi makes my head hurt.
- The other day I was about to walk into the Prada store on 5th when I heard an old lady say, “I think Prada is over rated.” In the name of Miuccia Prada, I was about to throw down.
That’s it for this week. I can’t think of anything other than the Spider-Man movie that I just got back from so nothing else to add here. Brain is out of office.
xx