We’ve made it to the last week of fashion month, and we’ve got quite a bit of shows to get through, so let me not waste your time by talking about things that do not matter, like how I can’t decide which color Telfar bag I want to order, and it’s only a matter of time before I spiral and buy all three color ways that I want! (edit: I went with bubblegum and I feel good about it)
Starting off strong with Kenneth Ize, the man that always make me think I love stripes more than I actually do. I loved all the eye catching colors and the gold thread throughout the pieces. Fun, but luxurious. The super high-waisted dress pants? Harry Styles is running!!! The finale look was different from his usual bold moments, but the man has range!!!
I do love a Marine Serre moment, and this season sure did take me on a journey! Starting off with a slew of popcorn styled, quilted pieces, I was taken back to my middle school days. Why is this not the first time this season I’m seeing popcorn tops and not hating them? There was of course the iconic moon print, cute over-dyed denim moments, some lovely knits, clean leather moments, and a section that was giving chic hotel staff! A lot of the looks were made with up-cycled bath and tea towels, as the brand stays true to their sustainable practices. The clothing feels fun, but easy and accessible.
Botter took us for a deep sea dive this season, and 60% of the fabrics were produced from recycled ocean plastics. They position themselves as an “aquatic brand” and I think pulling in that scuba style adds an interesting element to their designs. The umbrella-like rain coats were fun and the sleeve length on this blazer was… a choice, but I liked the silhouette of the waist and hips. I also really enjoyed the bright colored suits that looked like they had been spray painted or airbrushed and the quilted purple set with jeweled buttons.
So Dior…. Maybe one day Maria Grazia Chiuri will make sense to me with her designs and styling, but today is not that day!!! I don’t ever see any consistency with Dior. Was there a look or two I enjoyed? Yeah, sure, but I’m not impressed and I don’t see the vision. Also what was with the greaser on top, boxer on the bottom looks? The nude tanks underneath everything???? I don’t know. It’s not for me. It’s not the mod, 60s world I want to live in. I’m not sure this Marc Bohan influenced collection accomplished what it was trying to.
Ottolinger said, we know what the girlies want and we’re gonna give it to them!!! Cut-outs, skin-bearing, and straps on straps on straps. Gen Z is eating this collection up, I just know it. I really enjoyed the busyness of simple materials and the blending of underwear, athleisure, and outerwear. Also loved the shoes. The final looks went a little more avant garde, and while I’m not sure most people would incorporate such looks into their everyday wear, I didn’t mind them.
So Koché had a really pretty color palette, but there wasn’t much that blew me away. I like the idea of adding softness to athleisure, but eh. I did love the concept of those latex leggings, but wish the waistband was different. Also, there’s something about a random yellow fade on the bottom of things that makes me think of a pee puddle.
Listen, I love sexiness and I love the Paloma Picasso inspiration, however… I have some things to say about this Saint Laurent collection. I thought the broad shoulder jackets were amazing, and I loved this jumpsuit, the denim and jewels were cool, but the non-inclusive, thin model line up and skin hugging bodysuits did not scream, empowering female sexuality to me. Let’s also not forget about the high stilettos that would have no chance against uneven pavement. This collection didn’t make me want to highlight all parts of my body the way others have and I think that’s a fine line Anthony Vaccarello has not learned to walk on yet.
Thebe Magugu did what had to be done this season!!! Drawing inspiration from his family and old photographs, this collection felt like the chicest hug. A natural born story teller, Magugu really knows how to make his pieces feel timeless and relatable, not to mention stunning.
I’m not exactly sure what Rochas was givingggg this season, but I did get a lot of tropical fish vibes with the plissé lamé looks. Also the boots made me laugh. I still need to sus out Charles de Vilmorin.
The Dries Van Noten lookbook was very chaotic and I felt like I was in a fever dream, BUT I did enjoy a lot of the colors and fabric use/manipulation. Did I raise my eyebrow a few times? Sure! Overall, it felt like a party Carrie would go to in The Carrie Diaries (canceled far too soon, let’s talk about THAT!)
Oh I very much enjoyed Kwaidan Editions. Simple, sleek, and captivating. Loved the tailoring and latex juxtaposed with the floral prints and bright colors. It felt very fetish but make it casual.
The second I saw that black leather coat at Courrèges I was ready to shut the fuck up and pay attention. This is the kind of mod, space age world I would like to insert myself into. Not whatever was happening over at Dior. This Courrèges revival is looking to be a fabulous one!!!
Although whimsical, there’s something about Cecilie Bahnsen’s pieces that feels practical and lived in. Perhaps that has to do with the fact that her team actually wear and work in these clothes! This collection feels feminine and confident; something you put on for yourself. You might catch someone’s eye, but you’ve definitely caught your own.
I’ve really been liking Patou, and this collection is no different! I look at these clothes and feel like I could really wear them anywhere if styled right. The layering of pleated skirts, the pie-frill collars, the lace, the bubble shorts, the embroidery!!!
Acne Studios was very exposed this season, which is not a bad thing! Although nothing super crazy, I really enjoyed it and I think that Jonny Johansson really gets the Gen Z audience and is using that to his advantage. Like we’ve seen all month, sexy, revealing, underwear as outerwear styles are what’s been taking over runways. I loved a lot of the leather, and buckles. The sheer knits were lovely, and the platforms were ridiculous in the best way.
I wasn’t obsessed with Balmain this season, but I will say that I like Olivier’s work more and more with each passing collection. I think he has a vision and it’s clear. The link chained looks were some of my favorites and I’ve also been loving seeing the sculpted pieces that come from Balmain. I think Olivier’s clothing shapes a woman’s body in such a lovely way and it just makes me so happy that he’s continuing to get the love and support that he deserves.
Coperni was beachy, futuristic, and fun. There was a lot of psychedelic prints, sheerness, and shine. There was something about the blazer-like tops that looked like they had an untied bow that caught my eye, but I feel like there was just something missing that wasn’t explored enough?
You definitely know a Rick Owens collection when you see one! I loved this season’s collection. The way the pieces clung to the body just right, with no sheer mesh in-between or underneath was lovely. Also obsessed with the diaphanous dresses. There was a drama and coolness to it all that I know Grimes is eating up.
We love Raf Simons!!! This collection was wearable and cool. I’m obsessed with the little arm cuffs!!! The show took the conventional ideals of dressing and spun them around; as do most people in today’s world! Like I’ve said before, clothing does not have a gender!!! It is just fabric you put on your body. The collection felt timeless… and maybe a little bitty Prada influenced???
Rokh brought a kind of glamour that felt youthful and fun. I liked the deconstructed skirts and bra tops. There was a dress that I’d normally not like the silhouette of, but here I thought it was lovely. Also, strangely wishing I wore PVC to prom. The jeweled and feathered bodysuit with a shear skirt over it was gorg! Some moments were a little whatever, but overall I enjoyed it.
You know what, I think Gabriella Hearst might be moving in the right direction at Chloé. The craftsmanship was lovely and the collection felt very boho and free-spirited which reminds of the old Chloé. I also love that Hearst is bringing attention to the people behind all the pieces. For example, macramé necklace and baskets are labeled with the name of the person who wove them. Hearst is also working on making the brand more environmentally friendly which can be seen by the increased use of linens.
Isabel Marant felt very Y2K… but in the outdated way, not the cool way. It just wasn’t for me. It was very beachy, summery, and colorful, which all sounds like good things in theory, but here… not so much!
Everyone say thank you to Jonathan Anderson for this season’s Loewe collection. Omg. IF YOU GET IT YOU GET IT, IF YOU DON’T YOU DON’T. You know that photo of Jared Leto at a runway show looking really excited when he sees a green jacket? That’s me with this collection. There was a lot of extermination that I think payed off. The simple dresses that were disrupted with jutting structures and liquid metal. My favorite had to be the melted candy, see through breastplates; I DROOLED. The balloon-like pants, the draping, the airbrushed dresses; it was all fun! It all weirdly worked. Oh, and we can’t forget about all the funky heels. I would like one of each please.
Issey Miyake always has some fun fabric manipulation. The Link Ring section was interesting, and I also liked the way some sleeves looked like looped tunnels for the arms. It was slinky, fun, and practical.
Nina Ricci was more punchy this season and I didn’t mind it. I enjoyed the deconstructed jackets and the bright colors peeking through. Also intrigued by these ring necklaces. They feel like glow stick necklaces, but make it fashion.
Christopher Kane has always been cheeky, so this latest trend of being more sexy and daring is nothing new to him. This season gave… futuristic kink? The geometric dresses were fun and I loved the belt-like straps. Obsessed with this gorgeous coat, and love a Christopher Kane graphic tee!! If edging had to be made into clothing, it would be Kane’s work. The clothing doesn’t flat out say something, but there’s a little bit of an erotic flare with every look.
Valentino ready-to-wear always underwhelms me a bit in comparison to the couture collections. This season, I felt like my attention was a little more captivated. As usual, Pierpaolo is a master at color blocking, and I also really like how a lot of the loose shorts had a tighter biker short underneath. The fitness instructor in me approved. I liked the play on proportions and the references to old Valentino collections. The floral cutouts were also lovely, and since feathers seem to be my new thing, you already know how I feel about this look. I’m liking this look in theory but there’s something about the way the straps are tied that’s throwing me off, I think? The gladiator sandals though… we are not letting those come back!!! Whatever, we stan Pierpaolo 4ever.
Alexandre Vauthier was short and sweet. The collection had a lot of moments that looked very simple at first glance, but upon further inspection there was some kind of surprise that made the piece special.
I have to say, I liked Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood more than the actual Westwood collection. It was just fun and made me giggle! The collection was also filled with Kronthaler’s personal items, like his baby blanket which made the collection feel cathartic to me. I like when the obvious choice isn’t made and I like when things make sense by not making sense at all. You know?
Hermès wasn’t anything crazy, not that I ever expect it to be, but it was quite nice for the most part. The collection was very much, I need to go somewhere so let me look like I tried even though I didn’t. Very casual pieces were slightly elevated, and I’m sureeeee there is a customer for this.
The Balenciaga show starting off with The Simpsons and dressing Marge and Bart in Balenciaga was brilliant. I also that it was fun having the guests be part of the show. I’m not an all black outfit kind of gal, but I sure could be convinced with most of the looks in this collection. I like Demna’s consistency in aesthetic and I really enjoyed this show! I don’t care if it makes me basic, it was good!!!
Not obsessed with Lanvin but there were some fun moments! I liked the printed graphics, and the bust of the first three dresses was interesting.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin said lol, sexy, skin, and sensuality are all my middle names. The collection definitely brought the ~spice~ and I very much enjoyed it. Imagine taking all of your sexual tension and creating a collection out of it, that’s what this is. The smoothness and ruggedness work together perfectly. All the strappy pieces are braided and woven by hand, made without any sewing. Loved the eyelet laced pants. Can we also talk about how he has a collab with Pornhub coming next spring?!
I didn’t really know much about Matthew M. Williams before he came to Givenchy other than the fact that he had his own brand. Listen, the man does make some very nice things, however this collection just wasn’t for me babes. Also uhm… the noose necklaces? Why are we still doing shit like that?! I thought the tailoring and texture was oftentimes nice, but wasted on not so nice looks.
Not gonna lie, Stella McCartney just bores me more and more with each passing season. Ma’am I know you can make some cute shit, I know you have it in you. Please do it. I love that she works hard to be sustainable and I’m into the idea of mushroom leather for a bag, but do good things while making good things at the same time plz.
I’m sure it’s funny to hear that this is a more toned down Schiaparelli collection, compared to those we’ve recently seen. It’s still whimsical and fun, but almost more wearable; I suppose it is ready-to-wear after all! I’m sure the minimalists are scrunching their brows at that statement. I loved seeing more suiting and I’m all here for the cone bras. The bust shaped like two roses that continue down into trains was lovely. The ribcage detailing was fun, and the sheer chiffon puff was sexy. Although not a couture collection, Daniel Roseberry keeps that Schiaparelli cheekiness alive. Also very into all the ear details.
Giambattista Valli was very romantic and sweet this season. Although there were tulle dresses, of course, I liked that, that wasn’t the highlight. There were so many lovely plays on silhouette and a freshness that felt in tune with what the youths are into, but still sticking with Valli house codes. Yes, there was sheerness, midriffs, short hems and more, but still delicate and classically feminine moments without being provocative.
The Maison Margiela lookbook stressed me out, but love the fisherman fantasy it gave. It’s destroyed by put together. All of the harsh and delicate moments worked together nicely AND!!! New tabi boots!!!
Rei Kawakubo brought the volume and shape and prints at Comme des Garçons. But of course she did! I liked the collection and I felt like I was looking at 3D structures coming straight out of a comic book. I liked that Kawakubo sent out a little note to discuss her thought process, but I’m not sure it lined up with the collection lol? Either way, it was fun, but not the craziest thing we’ve seen!
Chanel felt the most fun and free it’s been in a long time. Was it something to run home about? No, but I’ll take it. I felt like I was seeing more of Karl’s work back on the runway, kind of. Not only did Virginie Viard reference clothing, but she also referenced the old atmosphere of fashion shows. Instead of walking down expressionless, the models smiled and had fun as photographers lined the runway, snapping shot after shot. There was of course, the signature Chanel tweed, sometimes kept classic, sometimes with a younger twist. Not sure what’s going on in this section; will be blocking from memory.
Olivier Theyskens’ collection included 22 one-of-a-kind looks. Honestly, stunning. Looks were made using scraps and swatches from fabric mills that were patch-worked together to create a lovely collection. The pieces were “cooked” together, says Theyskens. The way in which all the patches blended so well together was amazing, and I can’t imagine the work that went into them. Very jealous of all the people that will own these one-off pieces.
Alexa, play Dirrty by Christina Aguilera. We know how much Miuccia loves her mini skirts, and this season at Miu Miu they’re the shortest they’ve ever been. You guys, I’m obsessed. I know low-rise is a bit controversial, and I am a high-waisted kind of gal, but I’ve been… dabbling, and I might be into it. This is the collection I want to wear to the office if I ever work a 9-5 IRL. There were some more demure looks, too, for those not ready to serve sexy office chic. I enjoyed how all the crops looked like they had just been chopped instead of being carefully finished and hemmed. The belted bandeau moment? Give it to me. Give it all to me, ok.
I really enjoyed the color palette at Lacoste this season. Not that interested in it, but wasn’t awful. Sporty chic and I’m a sucker for a nylon cargo. I could see the Insta fitness baddies wearing this collection.
Not entirely sure what was happening at Louis Vuitton, but there were some moments I enjoyed. Love a panniered dress. I feel like I was just like okay(: Nicolas(: I like the juxtaposition of different eras and styles but I’m not understanding the direction of that here.
AZ Factory had to be the most perfect way to finish off fashion month. The dedication to Alber Albez, with designers creating pieces inspired by him, was lovely. I really enjoyed seeing all the different interpretations of Albez and the show just made me smile. I really recommend reading the Vogue Runway write up.
So we’ve made it to the end of fashion week! I know I skipped some Milan shows, but there were so many, and this already took me a little longer than expected, so I hope you enjoyed my itty bitty recaps of this month.
Till next season, oy.