So. Many. Things. To. Discuss!!!
Fashion month has begun, so content is definitely not lacking this week. I’m not going to go into specific detail on each show, because we’d be here all day. This is just more so to mention some things that I liked, and maybe sprinkle in a little bit of criticism, although not too many designers offended me THAT terribly. ALSO, I want to maybe shine light on some brands you might not know, that deserve your undivided attention.
P.s. you will be getting two newsletters this week, because putting anything more after all of this NYFW content feels like doing too much.
There’s two kinds of people, the ones that started their NYFW experience with Collina Strada and the ones that started it with Christian Siriano. If you’re a part of the latter, you can’t sit with us. Collina Strada is a brand I always look forward to seeing and this season was the perfect way to come back after months of virtual shows. The show was titled “Snails Pace” and through its clothing, displayed the human connection to the natural world. The layering, the colors, the experimentation, the tramp-stamp belts; all so fun and joy inducing. Sustainability has been a large part of the brand right down to the details; like the recycled jewelry and show notes printed on seeded paper to be planted later. We love! I loved the diversity and playfulness the models brought to the runway. "It's a chaotic time. The world is changing and so are you. You dress for the mess” the show notes read, and like, tea. The collection was full of precise chaos that left me inspired.
Christian Siriano on the other hand managed to put on a show that was too much of everything, while also not being enough of anything. It’s confusing to me how all of those looks are from one show? And also are just like, bad? Siriano is always praised for his inclusivity in dressing larger bodies, but that should be the bare minimum in fashion, not an excuse to make ugly clothing.
Saint Sintra made its NYFW debut at no disappointment to moi! I loooved this show and I’m still thinking about the pink, pleated, petticoat with matching double-breasted jacket. The designer, Sintra Martins, says she’s fighting to bring back the petticoat and I second that motion (notion?). The sheerness, the crochet, the textures!!! If you’ve never heard of this brand before this moment, you’re welcome for making your life better. I am far from being a minimalist so this collection is right up my alley, however, I would still argue that, although a never ending bag of surprises, it is very versatile and wearable. I can’t wait to see what the future if Saint Sintra holds.
Peter Do, one of my faves, also made his NYWF debut and it was absolutely gorg! In the show notes Do writes, “A good Pho is reduced and edited, to an essence. It is comforting and it feels like home… Welcome to our home.” Do also mentioned that he found inspiration in photographs of his grandmother’s old church outfits and explored traditional Vietnamese ao dai. I’ve loved seeing everything that’s come from Peter Do and how it’s grown and evolved over the seasons. From refining old signature styles, to introducing new ones, it was such a pleasure to watch a show that you can tell has been handled with care.
“The Spring 2022 Collection reimagines canonical ideas of nationality, gender, and beauty through my lens of unabashed optimism and unadulterated hope. America has always been a woman - but she has not always been treated beautifully. What does it mean to be the most essential person in this country? What is feminine? What is American? And who gets to be it all - or none of it?” are the opening notes of Prabal Gurung’s Spring 2022 Collection. I love when a brand questions the constructs of gender, because it will always be a strange thing to me that we gender clothing. Every time someone makes me like a bubble hem, I always question what it is that I actually believe in. Sure, there was a questionable look or two, but there was so much beautiful color and fun silhouettes, that I can totes forgive that. The collection felt light and had my synesthesia in full drive. I loved the skirts that flared at the hip and bounced as the model walked. Since apparently I love feathers now, these gowns were lovely, and I’m also a sucker for a liquidy looking sequin.
Proenza Schouler doesn’t get as much attention as it deserves, me thinks. This season, the stunning neutrals with punches of reds, yellows, pinks, and oranges had so much movement and fun. Apparently I need a top with beaded sleeves! Although there was a lot of flow and fringe that didn’t make me completely cringe (that rhyme did though), there was also structured coats and yummy leathers that kept the balance. I also loved the shoes; practical but cutie.
If you’re a fan of Iris Van Herpen, I’m sure you’ll find interest in threeASFOUR’s chakra inspired collection. Their 3D printed, laser cut designs are sure to impress, but the bodysuits and leggings are just as lovely. Also!!! I felt like for once, a pretty good job was done at matching mesh to the models’ skin.
PH5 always has lovely knitwear with fun hemlines and I loved the colors of this collection.
Maryam Nassir Zadeh brought simple, comfortable, and lovely looks to the runway with the introduction of more menswear! “Going back to her roots” the looks were stripped down and v nice.
Naeem Khan made me think I was looking at Versace Spring 2021, but also Dolce & Gabbana??
I seem to enjoy Gabriela Hearst far more for her own brand than I do at Chloe. The knits were stunning, and apparently I need an agate encrusted dress.
Okay, I’m OBSESSED with Willy Chavarria. The designer described the collection by saying, “I wanted it to feel like couture, to feel regal, and then to shift that against the toughness of New York.” And I think just that was accomplished with some of the most elegant streetwear I’ve ever seen. In the past Chavarria’s collections have made bold statements, but this season the clothes did all of the talking. The drama was brought to pieces that you see walking down the streets of NYC every day. Definitely one of my favorites this week.
I’m sure Freud would have something to say about how much I enjoyed the Moschino collection. Jeremy Scott really said, “I’m baby” and I’m here for it. Honestly, this is one of my favorite collections from Scott and it’s everything I expect to see from Moschino. While there are a lot of looks with childlike motifs, there are also more “wearable” looks sprinkled in-between. I hate to say it but… I like the quilted looks. I love how the collection has a very distinct direction it’s going in while still having a lot of variety in looks. Did I need to see Gigi Hadid drinking from a baby bottle, probs not, but *shrugs*. If Upper East Side ladies that wore Chanel in the 90s were turned into babies, they would wear this collection.
Always love seeing the sexiness of LaQuan Smith. Some of the highlights for me were the chrome leather pants, the sequined fabrics, and all the fun knotting. Also not mad at a terry cloth moment. Some looks lacked a bit of luster for me, but I still enjoyed the show. I can see the Instagram baddies gagging.
Who said deconstruction has to be minimal? Monse brought it back with functional and easy looks while still having interesting design elements. Loved the rope details.
Carolina Herrera isn’t what I would describe as ~my style~, but I can appreciate a lovely feminine silhouette, a full-skirted gown, and a bit of playfulness.
In the same way, I am probably not the Jason Wu customer, but I think this collection was very sweet and had a lot of looks that could be dressed down or up.
Listen, I once heard someone say that Michael Kors is just as good as whatever collection he decides to copy that season, and like, tea. However, I’ve come to realize that Michael Kors is a just a classic American brand that appeals to an audience who wants easy to wear, designer pieces. The clothing isn’t meant to shock you. Kors knows his customer and with lovely skirts, shining sequins, and 1950’s references, there were definitely many looks I enjoyed!
She loves a Batsheva moment. I love the consistent retro house wife, milkmaid vibes and I’ve been wanting a dress forever. I love the contrast between the soft pastels and punchy hues, all finished off with those signature metallic looks. Batsheva perfectly combines the classic ideas of femininity with the contemporary.
Eckhaus Latta is another v cool brand that I luvv. It’s giving comfort but make it hot. Sheer fabrics, daring cutouts, cute knits, and a lot of slime. All right up my alley.
I feel like a lot of brands this season are just coming back after this hiatus with fun and chill collections, Coach being no different. With oversized t-shirts, boxy silhouettes, and low rise jeans, it all felt very current. There were a few printed tees and printed dress that made me wrinkle my forehead, but over all, not mad about it. I liked the little leather details, staying very true to Coach’s roots, while letting the brand grow with its more recent popularity amongst whatever generation it is that we consider young now.
“I just wanted it to be a bunch of different women head to the same party,” said Christian Cowan of his latest collection, and it’s a party I would also like to attend. V hot. Chainmail, bedazzling , sheerness, marabou feathers; all the glitz and glamour! If these women took me in as one of their own on a night out, I would feel safe.
Brandon Maxwell said he wanted this collection to feel more authentic, and I am intrigued to see more of this authenticity. His collections don’t usually hold my interest, but already with the first look I had to double check whose collection I was looking at. With punchy prints, psychedelic motifs, contrasting rugby stripes, and skin bearing looks, this collection was definitely different from the more neutral and minimal Brandon Maxwell we’re used to. Also the gingham moments!!!
When I think Rodarte I think, romance, florals, lace. That is in fact what I was given. The gowns moved beautifully and I loved the delicate slips and even the funky floral dresses. Some looks where a bit off center and I have a feeling that was intentional, but, why. Two shaggy beaded gowns made me happy and the show ended with a very Cult of Rodarte feel, as models wore the same dress in varying neutrals, pinks, purples, and yellows.
Maisie Wilen’s collection was super fun and flirty and I very much love a lace tight. Streetwear meets feminine romance is the best way I can describe it and I can definitely see Devon Lee Carlson sporting these looks. Also, who doesn’t love a Kim Petras moment.
Edvin Thompson, the mastermind behind Theophilio, really DID. THAT. While staying true to his roots, the designer made the collection feel so New York. The crochet, the curve hugging mesh, the fun!!!! So hot, so good, I’m obsessed.
What else do we expect to say about Thom Browne other than it makes me emotional. I loved it, obvi. Wish I could have been there to experience the fairytale.
Sandy Liang creates clothes that the cool girl you want to be friends with wears, and this collection felt no different to me. I could imagine myself wearing basically the whole collection. Even the blue coat with just undies underneath. Loved the dresses, the skirts, the pinafore, the quilted looks, the scalloped hem, *chef’s kiss*.
Tory Burch isn’t the first thing that comes to mind when I imagine myself wearing a designer, but there were a lot of fun colors! There were… questionable things, but like, I can respect when something is not for me. Also, do I smell Phoebe Philo inspo?
I honestly liked the tie-dye looks from Altuzarra. There were also some lovely plissé looks and nice knits.
Puppets and Puppets was funky and fun. There were jumpsuits that honestly live in my mind rent free and fun dresses that I would very much like to own.
Kim Shui made me want to yeehaw my ass to Tennessee and fall in love with a cowboy.
So like… not my fave Tom Ford collection. Felt very 80s meets y2k, but there were also little moments that took me back to his time at Gucci.
FIN.
If you got through, hope this was digestible. Listen, I tried. If there’s any shows you want me to go into actual detail on, lmk. I can go look by look if you want me to bby. Also ugh, I know I skipped some okay. This is my first time out here, I’m overwhelmed.