Does writing reviews for so many things, even if they’re super mini, ever get easier? I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and it does not include Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry Spring 2022 collection.
Kim Jones really did the damn thing with this Fendi collection. I really feel like he’s finding his footing and I can’t believe how much I loved this collection. The sleek suiting, the furs, the illustrations by António Lopez, the 1960-70s feel, the color progression. It all had a lovely continuity and I really enjoyed it.
While I’m not extremely blow away with Brunello Cucinelli, I think the fancier athleisure and good tailoring were nice. Some looks were a pass for me, but there were some cute shoes. I think Cucinelli knows his client, and I am not she!
A little bit difficult to see the Vivetta collection from the lookbook, but from what I can gather, I think it’s really cute and I did enjoy seeing the clothing in motion. The prints and design elements felt very 60s, which I loveee. The large jewel-like tunics were interesting and I would not say no to owning one.
Known for their work with pleated skirts, the girlies at Chopova Lowena expanded into new prints, trousers, and lighter materials. A brand definitely not for the minimalist at heart, I love that they always stay true to their brand and don’t adhere to the current trend cycle; as do many other designers. I loved the fun hand drawn graphics and I’ll always be a sucker for those skirts. The buckles added a nice touch and I think all the clashing prints are struggling to fight against each other because they work so well together.
Alberta Ferretti had some moments that I enjoyed, like the macramé style tops, but there were a lot of diaphanous looks that just felt a bit boring. Some organza looks would have been interesting had the lining underneath at the hem not been visible. Kim Jones said cropped blazers are the new thing last season and all the girlies said, absolutely!!!
Jil Sander awakens the minimalist in me, because it let’s the maximalist stay close by. I liked the lighter color palettes and the new take on ascots(?) There were some lovely knits and an overall feeling of wearability and accessibility. Some looks definitely made me scrunch my eyebrows, but the finally look made me forgive the wrinkles.
If any one should be at the helm of Roberto Cavalli it’s Fausto Puglisi. Listen, I didn’t like a lot of these looks, but that’s more so because they’re just not my personal taste. However, who am I to be mad at a Cavalli collection that feels like Cavalli? I did enjoy the efficiency of the pieces and how they had an almost athletic like quality, while still keeping the punchy prints and fabrics. The clothing is cooky but sexy and you can definitely see the inspiration from past Cavalli collections.
Max Mara this season was more work from home and less work from the office. It was simple and chic with some lovely outerwear.
Listen, Etro and paisley print will never be my thing. Also what was with the waistband on most of the pants??? I did however really enjoy this look and the style of this top. Didn’t mind the knits either.
Every time I see a show with over 100 looks, like at Emporio Armani, I always wonder if it couldn’t have been condensed. I often feel like quality over quantity in these situations is always better. I also stop processing what I’m looking at after a while. Anyways, amongst the neutrals and navies, there were some watercolor like moments, and skirts with just the right amount of wispiness. Suits with flowing pants, some with a cargo feel, and nicely tailored blazers. I thought the sportswear moment was interesting and I liked the windbreaker feel. Really liked this little denim suit moment. I felt like I looked at four different shows, but they did all feel very Armani.
Yes, that was Blumarine Spring 2022 and not 2002, you read that correctly. Blumarine is continuing its reign as Y2K head bitch in charge. The butterflies were in full effect. The low-rise bottoms, the cargo pants, the sheerness, the bandanas, the printed denim, the crop tops; all there. Honestly, is this not what the girlies want? One of the biggest trends from the past couple of years has been to bear it all and be hot, and that’s basically what Brogano is doing at Blumarine. I will say, anyone can obviously wear whatever they want if it makes them feel confident, but is it just me, or is Blumarine slipping into skinny girl clothing territory? I’m not saying that only skinny girls will look good wearing Blumarine, but I feel like that’s what they are representing as a brand.
I very much enjoyed MM6 Maison Margiela. I loved the foil printed checkerboard looks and the spiderweb top. The silly little hats and collars made me smile. Also enjoyed the trippiness of some fo the pieces. The extra sleeves were an interesting choice, but like I’m not mad at it! There was something about the collection that made me think of IT.
Part fo me has always had a soft spot for Missoni, but this season, they really served. That signature Missoni print on gorgeous, metallic knits made me go very heart eyes emoji. There were also knits that looked like TV static, or a patchwork of prints that I thought were cute. I loved the crop top that looked like it had a cape. The micro mini, just enough to cover the nips bra top was hot, but I think something more interesting than the brand name printed on it would have been nice.The collection was sexy, as are most this fashion month, while still being very cool and light.
So Sportmax was… a thing! I mean, okay, there were some interesting things like the double-pant moments and I liked the sheer tops that looked like exposed boning, but some things were definitely a choice. I also liked the jackets tied with a bow, and some of the gathering was unique. A little confusing, a little boring.
Miuccia and Raf made their in-person debut with this season’s Prada collection, and it had some very cute, very fun moments! A signature was the nylon, short in the front, long in the bad skirt that some people said looked like toilet paper stuck to the back of your skirt, but I like to think it’s like a mullet. Business in the front, going to a gala in the back. I don’t know, I liked them. They were weird, and ugly in a cute way, which is Prada’s thing so, like. I also love the two knit sets with the little biker shorts peaking out. The sweaters that had a more structured bust and shirts with exposed boning were lovely. Although not visible in these photos, there were dresses that had a super low back with a gorgeous gathering at the bottom. The collection took seductive elements of womenswear and applied them to everyday pieces. I’ve honestly loved seeing Miuccia and Raf work together, and they think they do a good job of blending each others “isms” together.
So I kept trying to convince myself that the Versace collection would grow on me, but it hath not. I really liked the safety pins and there was an oroton look or two that I enjoyed, but honestly what was that??? I just wasn’t understanding how things were meant to go together, and like I said before, I liked the safety pins, but why were they IN ADDITION to the buttons, why not just alone? I think this is the first time a collection had made me feel old at the ripe age of 24. I think this one was for the TikTok youngsters. The shoes have been really fucking good lately though, haven’t they.
MSGM wasn’t that interesting but according to my synesthesia, the colors of this collection smell like a fruit bowl and fresh country air, so I don’t hate it. She had her cute moments.
I really enjoyed the last Salvatore Ferragamo collection. This one, not as much; but it was still nice! I liked the billowy pieces, and I’m obsessed with this look. It was simple and airy, definitely a collection I could see the people of Milan eating up.
Okay, kind of obsessed with the Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY collection. The angsty, gothic looks in the beginning were too good, and I’m in love with this moment. There was a lot of color blocking and that signature LOVERBOY tartan. Some looks felt like pieces out of folklore, and it was just a fun and creative time.
Giorgio Armani felt very much like, I am rich, and I am going on my yacht in the riviera. The show felt pretty signature Armani, and while there were some questionable moments and some pieces that felt… outdated, there were lovely moments. I really enjoyed this top, however the circle belts were truly not necessary! Ever!
Sunnei was simple, but I really enjoyed it and I liked the styling of it, too. I’m not exactly a minimalist, but if I was, Sunnei would be my go-to. This season felt a bit more experimental though, which I think is why it really appealed to me. There was a lot of fun with layering, color, volumes, and proportions, while still feeling very balanced.
I loved Marni this season. Francesco Risso kept the quirkiness, but made it more wearable. Throughout the collection there were a lot of stripes and flower motifs and the designer said, “Stripes are strongly associated with direction, where daisies are new beginnings and resilience; they’re banal concepts.” However, his stripes and flowers were anything but banal. The bright blues and oranges, the deconstructed stripes, the leather flowers; it was all so fun.
She does love a Pucci moment. I really enjoyed the sheaths and pinafore like dresses with little bra tops underneath. The sheer, beaded looks were stunning and I loved these cute little shorts and matching top. It was pretty minimal this season, but there also some Pucci-esque prints and crocheted knits that were lovely.
Yeah, I just don’t think Riccardo Tisci and Burberry are the match we’re looking for. This collection is giving… it’s giving Dobby the house elf. At least Tisci drew from British culture!!! I was just not picking up what was being put down. I did like the shearling though! Tisci was like, here are some trench coats, now LET’S. FUCKING. GOOOO. And just did things that I would have not assumed were Burberry.
Melitta Baumeister was a fun time! For starters, love the carved wooden shoes. Some of it gave Rei Kawakubo lumps and bumps, which i’m here for. I loved her play on shapes and structure. The acid wash denim with cutout knees was dope, and the finale look with a lucite harness underneath explored the designers play on shape. It also reminds me of the latest Balenciaga Couture collection. The looks take on the feminine silhouette but make it fun.
So Fendace was a thing. The Donatella and Kim Jones collab, that wasn’t actually a collab, was definitely memorable. Basically it was Versace by Fendi and Fendi by Versace. The whole thing made me laugh, I don’t know you guys. Is this camp? This is camp. It just didn’t hit the same as Gucci x Balenciaga, like I just hope this doesn’t become a thing between designers. But like it’s fun, whatever.
Yay, we did it. We made it through. What were your faves from Milan?
On another note, I really want Jojo Siwa to be a fashion girl, anyway, see you next week for the finally in Paris!
xx